Welcome!
All along the highway into the border town where we planned to catch a bus, blackberries were ripening. In the 1980s, Mary Fulcher and I spent happy days harvesting blackberries from the brambles on vacant lots around Ocracoke. Then we'd sell our harvest to the restaurant John and Debbie Wells ran, where Dajio is now.
We were stopped at the edge of town by a bored border guard, who sees little foot traffic. He spoke good English, and asked where we were planning to visit. Well, we said, quiet villages and places to do some hiking. Petr recommended Mezek, which fits the bill perfectly. Bus service is infrequent, so he called a friend, who picked us up (for free!). Our rented house is snug and sunny, fantastically clean, and has great views over the valley.
All I can hear is birdsong and the occasional tractor passing. All I see are the red tiled roofs and gardens of village houses. Yesterday afternoon the restaurant next to the cottages filled up with Greek families taking a drive across the border through the Rhodope mountains, a jolly band of motorcyclists, and dressed up Bulgarian couples enjoying a leisurely Sunday afternoon. It was quite lively, and convivial.
Everyone in the village of 300 people seems to know there are Americans in town. It makes me think of what Ocracoke must have been like years ago. In the evenings we go to the only grocery store, one small room with basic provisions, and join the locals sitting at cafe tables outside. We've been given fruit and vegetables from local gardens, and a jar of honey harvested from a backyard hive.
This afternoon I may walk down to the Thracian tombs on the outskirts, or I may continue to sit here in the sunshine, a relaxed, warmly wleomed, and happy vacationer.
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